Rapids and still waters. Sun sparkles on the surface. Glimpses of distant mountains, close encounters with limestone cliffs. Penan children splashing in water so clear you can see every pebble on the river bottom. Remoteness, the river a lifeline in a land without roads.




Egrets and Lesser Fish-eagles flap away from the boat, and I have never seen such magic dragonflies, flashing colour like fireworks as they catch the sun….

Mulu. Go there.